Rains Down in Africa

Usually when you think of summer, you think of hot, sweltering heat, right? Well summer here in Burkina is a little different. Yes, it is hot and sweltering (as usual), but there is the relief of rain. Clouds are constantly on the horizon, bringing the hope of relief of the heat. Hot season is over and now it’s rainy season. Before coming to Burkina, I thought that “rainy season” meant monsoons, with rain every day, or at least every other day. Instead, it rains about once a week in my village, and more often in the south. Despite the fact that there are no monsoon-like rains, the rain is still very welcome and cools down the earth to a more manageable temperature. So, thank god for the rains.

Since getting back from the U.S., I have been busy. I stayed in Ouaga for a few days after I arrived to get some things done, such as dentist, etc. Then I went to Tougouri for a few days. It was a little odd being back in village because the village seemed dead! The villagers were all out in the fields cultivating and the functionaries had all gone back to Ouaga or their home villages. So my courtyard was empty, which was a little disconcerting being alone after being with people for so long. The one time I want people in my courtyard, they’re all gone!

The next week I came back to Ouaga to participate in Coaching for Hope, a program to teach coaches how to coach and how to teach about HIV/AIDS through soccer. Overall, I think the formation went well and the Burkinabe counterparts, which each volunteer brought from their village, learned a lot. However, there were some difficulties due to cultural differences, such as the Burkinabe love to argue and talk on and on and on and Americans do not. When we’re done with a session and we’ve covered all of the topics, just let us go, instead of talking about something not related for an extra hour. Or, we don’t like pushing in line when the food comes. And, saying “give me food now” is not nice! But, the goals of the formation were covered (for the most part) and we all left feeling better for having done it. Although I must admit that I was very happy when it was over.

Last week I went down to Gaoua, a town in Southern Burkina Faso, for a wedding between a volunteer, Jillian, and a Burkinabe, Ibe. It was amazing to see the mix of American and Burkinabe cultures that were incorporated at the wedding. Jillian did a GREAT job of putting it all together and I’m sure that Gaoua had never seen anything like it before. Jillian and Ibe had already technically gotten married at a Muslim wedding a few weeks before, but this was the civil wedding that made the marriage “official” in the eyes of the government. This civil wedding was at the Marie (mayor’s office) and Jillian had to fight to have the wedding outdoors, but she succeeded! The Burkinabe did not want the wedding to be outside because they did not Americans to see pictures from the wedding and think that Burkina cannot afford a building for the mayor- shows what they know about American weddings!

The ceremony was beautiful, as Jillian had designed a pretty tent to be under. The mayor fought that as well, stating that he needed to sit at his big desk and his big desk would not fit under the small tent. I asked why he had to sit at this particular desk and why not bring a smaller desk outside. I was told that the mayor does not sit at small desks. Anyway, everything went smoothly and the wedding went off without a hitch. Except during the ceremony, the mayor went over the rules of marriage in Burkina and started saying things such as “All decisions must be made together, but if there is a disagreement the man decides” or “If you move to the U.S., you must do it together, but if both parties do not want to move, the man decides where you will live.” At one point during this Jillian leans over to Ibe and says “Ce n’est pas vrai” (It’s not true). Go Jillian!

After the civil ceremony, everyone moved to a restaurant for the reception. I got there early to check on decorations and make sure that everything was in order. Then the guests started showing up. I believe that over 400 people came into that small restaurant, of which 30 were fellow volunteers. The restaurant sure got crowded! After drinks, food, and the giving of the gifts, the dancing started and continued on into the night. I had a great time and hope Jillian and Ibe did too! Best of luck to them!

After the wedding I came back to Ouaga and have been working at the American Language Center, planning for English classes that will begin next week.

Coaching for Hope

My counterpart, Konate, and I

Obviously professional soccer players

Marita, Kim, and I excited about soccer

Jillian and Ibe

Civil Wedding Ceremony

All of the "nasaras" at Jillian and Ibe's wedding

I've found my new husband! (Doesn't he dress nice?)

Americaland

America: it’s like a theme park.

In late June I took a trip home to the United States! On the way, I spent a week in France with my friend Cate. We met up in Paris, saw all the sights, and basically just enjoyed once again being together after a year apart. Then we spent a few days in St. Malo, a port city located in Brittany. St. Malo was gorgeous and I realized how much I missed seeing water every day. Cate and I also had a wonderful dinner out at a fancy seafood restaurant (thanks Mary!) where we stuffed ourselves silly. Then it was time to fly home. I flew into Washington, DC and was met by my high school friend Stephanie. I spent a few days visiting my grandmother and hanging out with friends. From there I went on to Alabama to see the family. At home I relaxed, enjoyed being with family, ate A LOT of wonderful food, and slept a lot in my very comfortable bed. When it was time to leave, of course I was sad and knew that I still had another year away. However, this past year has gone relatively fast and I know next year will go even faster. It was great to get home and reconnect with those stateside, and of course, get some Papa hugs.

Miss you all!

Cate and I at Mont Saint-Michel

Me with Mama and Papa (notice their African clothes)

Karl and I. I still cannot believe that he is now taller than me!

School's Out for the Summer!

I am officially done with my first year of teaching! However the past few weeks have been a little bit crazy. Since the beginning of May I have filled out report cards (bulletins), helped the Professor Principals (counselor teacher for each class) fill out the Livret Scholaires (student grade books), attended 6 soccer games, went to two fetes, and attended the final 6 hour long teacher’s meeting which was followed by chicken and beer, thankfully.

Last week I took two girls from my village, Alima and Jacqueline, to a girl’s conference in the regional capital of Kongossi. Ten volunteers attended the conference, each bringing two girls. During the conference, two men from L’Action Sociale, a government ministry, spoke about family planning, sexuality, and women’s rights. Having Burkinabe speak was good, but I did not particularly like their method. Every morning was lectures, which got a little boring. We tried to intersperse the lectures with motivating activities. At one point the Burkinabe wanted to correct the girls’ French, which I thought was not appropriate as this was not school. And if anything, my French should be corrected, not the girls’! I did learn some interesting things, though, such as the Burkinabe consider polygamy as a method of family planning and to be Burkina’s president, you need to be 35 years old and have 20 million CFA (about $40,000). In the afternoons we volunteers did fun activities with the girls, such as games, condom demonstrations, etc. One afternoon a panel of motivated women, such as nurses, teachers, came and spoke to the girls. It was really neat to see the girls’ transformation throughout the formation. At the beginning, they were scared and timid but by the end the girls were all talking and had lots of fun at our dance party on the last night.

This past weekend I have been in Ouaga for a Youth Development Committee meeting. It sounds like we’re beginning to figure out our goals. We are hoping to put on a youth leadership/citizenship conference this fall/winter for local youth. The first goal is to find funding, which is the plan for today. Also, Saturday I watched two volunteers participate in the Ouaga marathon. They both finished with good times, but were a little sore afterwards. The marathon is basically a straight shot out of Ouaga along a road with no shade whatsoever and the runners were running next to cars, motos, bikes, and donkey carts. But, it did start at 6am, instead of 8:30 like last year, and there was enough water, though warm. It was also amazing to see many of the runners running in sandals or dress shoes. I don’t know how they did it!

That’s about it in my life right now. I am looking forward to my trip to Paris and home in less than 3 weeks!

They love Obama here!

The girls at the end of the conference

Some of us volunteers

Girls in the water

Alima, Jacqueline, and me

The girls completing the "bridge model" to demonstrate overcoming obstacles in their lives

Alima reading

Condom demonstration

Camel riding in Bani (see last blog)

Eleven Months In!

Monday May 17, 2010

I have been in Burkina Faso for over 11 months. In some ways it feels much longer but in other I feel that I just got here. The days and weeks seem to fly by, but the minutes and house drag. I am also almost done with my first year to teaching! I’ve taught my last classes and filled out report cards. All that is left is the final teacher’s meeting and then I am done! It feels very good to have a year to teaching done with.

To celebrate, I went to Bani, a neighboring volunteer’s site, last weekend where I met up with several other volunteers and we went camel riding and explored the mosques to Bani. In Bani, against Islamic traditions, there are several mosques on the hills surrounding Bani that instead of facing towards Mecca, they face toward Bani’s grand mosque. As the myth goes, the local iman, El Hadj Hama, left Bani in the 1950s and wandered in the desert for many years, while walked to Mecca at least two times. According to his followers, El Hadj is God’s last prophet on Earth. In the 1980s El Hadj returned to Bani and started a breakaway sect of Islam, which I believe only exists in Bani. The mosques were quite a sight to see, not quite worth all the hype they get in guide books, but a good hour’s hike. It’s also hard to believe that the mosques are only 30 years old; they look much older, especially because they’re built with mud bricks that weather prematurely.

Saturday afternoon six of us ventured out on camels to a local gold mine where we camped for the night. Camel riding is quite an experience, but not a comfortable one I’d say. Compared to horseback riding, camel riding feels downright precarious. The saddles are placed directly on the camel’s hump and while riding, you place your legs in front of you on the camel’s neck. I thought I was going to fall off on every step, but luckily I did not. Because there were not enough camels for the number of riders (four camels, six riders), we had to double up, which meant that four people were riding in saddles and two were behind riding without saddles. Surprisingly, I enjoyed riding behind without a saddle much better that riding in a saddle, as I was allowed to place my legs on either side of the camel rather than out in front. And today I am nice and sore!

Burning in the Sun

Gwen and me in front of a barrage

Old men beginning the dances

Hot season is upon us. Temperatures generally get up to 120 (at least) each day. My brother, at home in the U.S. checked the temperature in Ouagadougou at 4am my time- it was 99. Yes family, I wasn't kidding when I said it was hot. The heat is bearable except on humid days with no breeze. On those days, all you can do is lie down between 12 and 3om, fanning yourself, thinking cold thoughts to keep away the heat rash. However...drumroll...we had our first rain April 13th! When it started raining, I went out and danced in it. All of my neighbors thought I was crazy- not that unusual. Before the 13th, I hadn't seen rain since October 31st- nearly 6 moths with no precipitation! We haven't seen rain since the 13th though, although I hear that those lucky folks in the south are getting regular showers. I am hoping for rain everyday!

Last weekend I went down to Diebougou to visit another volunteer, Gwen. Diebougou is very different from Tougouri, with lots of trees and hills. Friday we went to a traditional fete at a neighboring village, where we watched high jump, long jump, and archery contests. Archery is popular down near Diebougou and as boys come of age, they are given their own personal bow. Later that day we watched traditional dancing of the Dagera and Gan people, which is also very different from the dancing up here. It involved mostly line dancing with everyone doing the same movements in unison. I enjoyed it when the dancers jumped way up in the air. Saturday was windy and we all just stayed at Gwen's house watching movies all day (oh lucky ones with electricity). It was just the break I needed. Sunday I rode the 8 hours back to site, a trip that seems like nothing now!

This past week has gone by relatively fast, thankfully. I am getting tired of school, students, and the constant noise. Because I live with 13 other people, there is always noise and I am never ever alone. It, in addition to the heat, is beginning to drive me crazy! After visiting other volunteers, such as Gwen, I realize how much I miss having my own space. Because it is so hot, I spend 95% of my time outside and outside space is everyone's space. It's hard sharing my bedroom with 13 other people. Also, a new man in the courtyard told me that I shouldn't wear shorts- which are long and I only wear them to sleep in. I know women wearing shorts are not culturally appropriate, but it's very hot and it's my courtyard too! And he walks around in only a towel 50% of the time, so what's the big deal? Also, I live with 9 chickens that really like to poop on my porch. But, the rooster is dying today and I am going to eat him! No more crowing at 2am right next to my head!

I would also like to apologize for the lack of pictures. Internet is very slow here, but I will try to put up more when I am visiting home in less than two months!!! Can't wait to get some hugs from the family... :)

March Madness

Time for the giant spiders...

Where to start...

March kicked off with a hot spell, making everyone believe that hot season had come early, and in full force. Luckily though, it cooled back off after a week of oppressing heat mainly due to the "cloud" cover because of all of the dust and dirt in the air. I do believe that the Sahara is blowing in on us, with the Harmattan working its magic.

The 8th of March is International Women's Day, widely celebrated here in Burkina. The festivities started with a "course" in which the villagers biked and walked from one end of town to the other. I wasn't exactly planning to join in, but I happened to be riding my bike through town to pick up my phone from being charged at a boutique when the course was beginning. So I joined in by default. Later in the day came the women versus men soccer game, which was hilarious as the players were all older people and were not the best at soccer. Many people were trying to get me to play, but I refused as I did not want my soccer debut to be in front of the whole town. But, best of all, the women won 2-1!

women and men

he is enjoying himself

so much so that he can take a break

two of my favorite girls in their 8 mars

The following week was busy as I was giving and grading my final tests for the trimester, while trying to calculate all of my grades. I am lucky to have only three classes to grade, while some other teachers have more than six. However, another new teacher just got affectated to Tougouri so my closest friend, Madame Diallo, now has fewer hours and more time to spend at home with her baby and to talk to me :)

March 11th was Culture Day at LDT so many of the students dressed up in traditional dress and performed a skit during the break time. Unfortunately, I did not have my camera so I cannot show pictures of my students dressed up as elders, complete with face paint. That night was Cultural Night where the students put on skits and dances for the villagers. It was actually a lot of fun and I even got to present the award for the best student in reading English. I have never spoken in front of that many people, let alone in French. So, needless to say I was a little nervous but it went well. I later became the photographer before retiring early as it went on for more than 4 hours. That weekend there was a fair at LDT followed by a soccer game between our team and a team from another middle school. The whole town turned out to watch, complete with music and refreshments. And Tougouri won! That night was the student ball, but I left early, at midnight, before the dancing even started. When Burkinabe go out, they stay out late!

Students dressed as gendarmes

Dance time

During the last week of school before spring break we had our first girls soccer game, premier cycle versus second cycle aka middle schoolers versus high schoolers. The whole school came out to watch, and despite the fact that many of the girls were not very good at soccer, everyone seemed to have a good time. But we will be working on getting better at soccer! The trimester ended with a typical Burkinabe meeting that lasted 5 hours. The next day I escaped to another volunteer's site and went from there south to visit another volunteer. Since then I have been in Ouaga, enjoying electricity and internet, and of course had a good time at the COS party for the stage that is leaving in a few months.

Watch out for the masks....or you'll get frapped!

My life this past week has been lots of fun. Mike, one of my closest neighbors, came to visit. We ending up going to a Tougouri traditional fete (party) where we got ushered into the inner circle and sat with the village elders. In the circle, we were very close to Tougs' masks. I asked a few people if I could take pictures and of course everyone said yes, but I was still worried how culturally appropriate that would be. After talking to a few different people, I ended up talking to the chef of the masks and he let me take pictures. woot! After sitting with the masks for awhile, and getting royally sunburned, Mike and I were about to leave when one of the masks came up and hit me in the face with a stick! It didn't really hurt, but I was very surprised, as I thought I was exempt from that- you know, the village white person no one wants to hurt. An old man next to me got up and started yelling at the mask, so I felt avenged. Later that night Mike and I went to the lycee's annual "happy new year" fete, where we ate, drank, and danced all night long. The next day I went to visit another volunteer near me, Kait, in Bani where we spent the afternoon in a mango grove with a meal of chicken, salad, and french fries with ranch. All in all, I'd have to say it was a very good weekend. This past week was spent teaching, as usual. I am currently in Ouaga for the first meeting of the new PC "Youth Development Committee. We're currently trying to define what exactly "youth development" is and what the committee can become to help other volunteers. So if you have any ideas or insights, please let me know!

And as wanted....pictures!

Said's walking now

Birthday boy!

Ready to eat

L.D.T. profs

bandit but cute

Mariame and Salmad

the masks of Tougouri

drunk man

I got her to smile!

dance dance